Before You Die, You Should Go To Buscalan And Meet The Tattoo Queen

So, you’re sick of your life and craving something new? Go for a thrill and life-changing adventure in Buscalan. The trip is tough with hours on the road, uphill walks, and no WiFi, but imagine meeting the 100+ year-old Tattoo Queen of Kalinga and actually getting inked by her! Sick!

Buscalan is not a resort town. It is a village that lives and breathes tradition. There are no hotels, no mobile signal, no Starbucks. What you get instead are cosy homestays at ₱350 a night, hosts who will feed you homecooked meals, and a sense of calm the city can never give. The climb up may test your legs but the reward is a sunrise that eats, mountain air that clears your brain, and the chance to meet Apo Whang-Od, the world’s oldest tattoo artist still inking the traditional way.

What your two days in Buscalan look like

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Day 1 starts before sunrise because you leave Manila the night before. By dawn, you are already in Bontoc, groggy but excited. From there, it is a ride then a trek or habal-habal going uphill. By mid-morning, you are finally in Buscalan, checking into your homestay and sipping that first cup of strong local coffee. After lunch, the adventure kicks in. You can line up to get inked by Buscalan's Tattoo QQueen, Apo Whang-Od a.k.a "The Last Mambabatok" or her apprentices. But if you are not inking, you can walk around the village and take photos at Padjao Rice Terraces. At night, the stars come out clear and loud, and you will forget about Manila traffic real quick.

Also read: Apo Whang Od: A Guide to Meeting the Last “Mambabatok” of the Philippines

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Day 2 starts at 5 AM sharp. Trust me, you will want to drag yourself out of bed because the sunrise in Buscalan is a whole experience. The light pours over the rice terraces while you cradle a mug of Buscalan coffee. It is cinematic, it is grounding, it is unreal. After that, you can squeeze in one last tattoo session or a final chat with the locals before packing up. By late morning, it is time to make your way back down. The ride home doubles as a bonus trip since you will pass through Bagyo and Banaue rice terraces, both stunning and IG-worthy. Dinner in Solano keeps your energy up before you finally crash back in Manila around 2 AM, tired but carrying one of the best weekend stories you will ever tell.

Also read: Take A Look! Buscalan Village Now A Visual Feast of Cultural Identity

Visiting Buscalan is life-changing

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Remember to not wing this trip. You need a local guide to get in and you need to coordinate beforehand. Cash is king because the last ATM is way behind you once you are in the mountains. There is no signal, drones are banned, and convenience stores are rare so bring your meds, snacks, and hygiene stuff. Plan smart so you can enjoy the simple joys there without stressing.

Why this hits different? This is not your “weekend at the mall” type of escape. This is culture, history, and memory all rolled into one. You meet Whang-Od, a living legend, get inked the traditional way or just watch, sip strong mountain coffee, and breathe in a silence you did not know you needed. It is cheap, unfiltered, and way more meaningful than another crowded tourist trap.

Also read: 5 Life Lessons From Travelling Alone to Visit Whang-Od

Before you die, go to Buscalan. Get lost in the mountains, sip coffee at sunrise, and meet the tattoo queen herself. It is budget-friendly, off-the-grid, and the kind of story that will stay with you way longer than your weekend selfies.

Featured image credit: monsieree | Instagram

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About Author

Wynona Purl

Wynona Purl is a pop-culture junkie, writer, and editor from the Philippines. She runs an indie style & culture magazine called Modamorph that features artists from the underground scene. A certified chatterbox who loves cats, anything ube, and always has guts and curiosity. For her, life’s fortune always favours the bold. She hopes to see more of the world someday and turn those travels into stories.

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